Sous le soleil de satan

La journée commencée bien. Gaëtan arrive à l’heure. 8h au parking, tout le matos de prévu. Bref de parfaites conditions pour réaliser cette belle voie.

On arrive au pied, et on constate que la glace manque cruellement.

On décide alors de passer par “Ca tend vers l’illusion”, pour ensuite rattraper le reste de la voie.
Arrivé à 2 mètres du premier spit, un fin filet de glace tout décollé nous barre la route.
Je redescend et on change d’option pour aller tester le départ direct de Satan. Arrivé au pied du 6C, c’est la même chose. Pas de glace, et but à 2 mètres du pitons… bien moche
Du coup rappel, et go vers les premières longueurs de Mandelbrot pour récupérer la fin de Satan.

C’est de la que tout commence. Une fine longueur en glace ( 1 piton ), nous même au pied du cigare.

Un piton dans une dalle compacte, permets de protéger un passage bien fin, pour arriver à un relais: 2 pitons et une lunule de rocher.

La suite c’est une traversée en rocher, ou les ancrages se fonts dans la terre, pour finir sur le cigare. Superbe ambiance !!!

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