Rappel toi que tu es un homme. Qui a dit qu’il n’y avait pas de glace??

La saison dernière, j’ai fini en beauté en gravissant cette magnifique cascade dans la vallée de Couleau.
250 m de glace verticale dans une ambiance démente. 2 longueurs en dry et de la très bonne glace.

L’année commence bien; après avec fait l’Ice Climbing Ecrins, avec la Team glace, je cherche des motivés pour la semaine qui suit pour aller en glace. Jeff est septique. Tous les “bruits” disent qu’il n’y a pas de glace…. Et pourtant elle est bien la. Un coup de fil à Christophe Moulin, une image sur Ice-Fall, et zou, mon Jeff rapplique aussitôt à Briançon.
Mardi matin, départ du parking 7h.

1 h d’approche en rive droite, en ski, nous mène au pied de ce bel édifice.

Toujours aussi impressionnante !!!

Jeff se cole à la première longueur de dry: M5/6 avec 4/5 pitons en place, et possibilité de rajouter 2/3 friends. Relais sous les chandelles, sur un spit de 8 et un pitons.

N’ayant pas été encore gravi de la saison, il y avait énormément de nettoyage à faire. Passage de méduse en méduse, du coup 4 petites longueurs de 15/20m pour pas se perdre de vu, et pouvoir hisser le sac du second.

Arrivé à la seconde longueur de dry, je m’y cole.
Pas dur, mais un peu expo pour atteindre le premier piton… faut pas tomber. Un spit de 8 protège le petit surplomb, puis l’on prend pied dans la glace raide, pas marqué…. mal aux bras….dur la reprise en glace !!

Arrivé sur la terrasse, on est bien content. Jeff est enfin parvenu à faire cette cascade qu’il convoité depuis un moment.
Belle journée de grimpe dans les Hautes Alpes, avec grosse journée de purge de glace ^^( fallait pas être en dessous !!! )

La vidéo

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