Voyage chez les Ricains, le pays de la fissure

Cela faisait de nombreuses années que je désirais me rendre dans ce grand pays. Tout d’abord pour y voir mon oncle, qui vit à Los Angeles, mais aussi ( et surtout ) pour tester les mythiques fissures au Yosémite.

L’année 2017 fut la bonne, avec Zab, on se décide 1 semaine avant, on achète les billets, et zou, direction les USA.
On atterri à San Francisco, puis après  avoir récupéré notre hôtel roulant, direction le parc du Yosémite.

4h plus tard, on distingue enfin les faces de El Capitan et du Half Dome.

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N’ayant pas de portaledge ( mode Old school en hamac ) et pour une première approche des big wall, on se dirige vers une voie avec le moins possible de bivouac en paroi. Direction donc, Washington Collum et la voie West face. Une grande classique.

Etant aussi novice en actif local, nous n’avions pas toutes les petites ruses. Pas de Friends et nuts offset, pas de camhook et pas les meilleurs chaussons adaptés. On fera avec les jeux classiques.

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Après 3 belles journées dans la face à côtoyer grimpeurs locaux, italiens et autres, on se dirige vers le Yosémite village pour reposer nos hanches et épaules. Faut dire, que l’on était parti avec 20kg chacun.

Pour se reposer, on profite des magnifiques blocs éparpiller dans toute la vallée.

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Entre tout cela, on organise la venue de la grimpeuse locale française : Julia. Habituée des murs, et costaux comme 2 hommes, elle sera nous diriger vers les meilleurs recoins de la vallée.

Du coup, on change le programme, direction Bishop pour 3 jours de blocs intense au soleil, avant un road trip à LA.

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C’est juste l’endroit parfait pour faire du bloc. Des secteurs très facile d’accès, des blocs de toutes difficultés, et un temps idéal pour faire des croix. ( bon ok petite croix, mais croix quand même )

Première partie du trip grimpe, on fait un break à LA, pour faire du tourisme a fond!!!
Toboggan du haut d’une banque, tatouage, plage, burgers, Hollywood Boulevard…. Bref on aura coché tous les trucs ” à faire ” du guide du routard…

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3 jours après, notre Julia nous annonce qu’elle arrive. Aussi dit aussitôt fait, on saute dans la voiture, et après un court passage au parc du Séquoia, on se retrouve au Yosémite.

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De la, notre programme est tout autre.

Gros mur, grosse approche, gros sacs, et gros moral. Direction le Mont Watkin’s. Mais pour y arriver, c’est 7 miles de marches avec pas moins de 46kg pour ma pomme ( oui elles n’ont pas étaient gentille avec moi ) et pas moins de 35kg pour ces dames.

Afin de repérer l’approche et de libérer un peu de poids, je fais un premier portage en vélo. Vélo, vélo, c’est quand même vite dit. Oui il roule avec des pédales, mais ils sont ou les freins???? ahhhh il faut rétropédaler???? ok, donc avec 30 kg sur mon dos, autant dire que si je freine je tombe….

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Après une longue bartasse tous ensemble le lendemain, sous un bon soleil torride, nous voici à la terrasse salvatrice pour nos épaules.

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Pendant que je me repose, j’envoi les demoiselles fixer les 3 premières longueurs. Oui oui oui, le hamac ne voulait pas rester seul.

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Next Day, réveil encore trop tôt et surtout après une petite nuit mouvementée ( les pierres n’aiment pas rester en haut ) nous voici dans la face. L’ambiance ce fait vite ressentir.

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Après tous ces efforts, la meilleur des récompence fut de se tremper dans un bain d’eau chaude naturel.

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Et surtout croiser Mr Ours

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Après 4 semaines passées chez les “ricains”, il est temps pour nous de faire nos au revoir à ce beau pays. Le Yosémite se recouvre de sa tenue d’automne, et nous on se dirige vers LA pour prendre l’avion du retour.

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Dernier gros burgers local et dernière soirée chez l’oncle d’Amérique.

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Une bien belle première expérience à découvrir des fissures juste mythique !!!!
A revenir au plus vite.

 

 

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